Life around continues to gather expert advice on how to improve everyday kitchen affairs. Every week, we explain how to cook or preserve a wide variety of products, and talk about simple tricks that make it easier and more interesting for you to be in the kitchen. In the new issue, all the questions about coffee Turks - or rather cezve - are answered by The Chef Steakhouse Turkish bartender Serdal Janatez and Vadim Granovsky, the British champion in brewing coffee in cezve and the founder of Coffee in Action. She is primarily engaged in consulting, selling equipment and coffee beans, which employees bring and roast themselves. In addition, the company specializes in the traditional way of making coffee - in cezve. At the moment she works at festivals in Kiev, London and Moscow, as well as at presentations in the format of a mobile coffee shop, but in the near future Vadim plans to open a permanent place in Kiev. He is also in conjunction with the Turkish company Soy engaged in the production of cezves and coffee accessories.
founder of Coffee in Action
Turk is more likely a popular and comic name, arising from the fact that we learned about this instrument from the Turks; in the original, it is called "cezve" or "cezve" (an adapted version of the word of Turkic origin).
Traditionally, cezves were made of copper, with thick walls. Copper has a very high thermal conductivity, second only to silver. That is why copper is considered the best dishes. What does this mean in practical application? You heat the bottom of a copper cezve, for example on a gas stove or coals. The temperature is immediately transmitted over the entire area of the cezve, evenly heating the coffee. What is very important in making coffee: coffee oils are very delicate and lose taste when boiled.
Now they produce several types of cezve, which can be immediately divided by type of material: aluminum, clay, ceramic, stainless steel, copper and alloys; sometimes there are glass ones.
Aluminum is a cheap and practical material. But it is considered a very controversial food metal: at high temperature it begins to react with its contents. Therefore, we will not dwell on this type of cezv. I recommend avoiding them ...
Clay cezves have both advantages and disadvantages. Clay is a fairly cheap material, so these products are very affordable. But one fall - and you say goodbye to the clay cezve: they are extremely fragile. You also need to be careful with temperature extremes: clay cezves can crack when washed. In addition, clay is a living porous material that absorbs oils perfectly. And the taste of the kind of coffee that you prepare in it for the first time will remain in it forever. To make different types of coffee in such a Turk is like drinking red and white wine from one glass: at a party, when everyone is a little drunk, it will do, but not for true connoisseurs. Each type of coffee has its own individual notes of taste, and a clay cocktail produces a kind of cocktail.
Ceramics are also quite fragile material. Ceramic cezves should be protected from falls and bumps. There is another feature that combines it with clay: when you remove such cezve from the fire, the process of making coffee continues. Therefore, coffee often runs away after you remove the cezve from the stove. Ceramics and clay continue to give off the accumulated heat, the temperature of the drink rises, the foam on the coffee rises and tends to be anywhere, but not in your cup. Be careful, otherwise escaped coffee can easily ruin your stove, morning and mood.
But I like ceramic cezves. Available. When properly handled, they are durable, not afraid of temperature changes. Some are even made with removable handles, which makes the cezve very mobile. In general, it is an ideal tool for a beginner coffee lover.
Stainless steel could also be an ideal material for making cezves. This metal absolutely does not react with the contents and does not change the taste of coffee. But a different kind of problem arises - a relatively low thermal conductivity. When using such cezve, there is a hotbed of heat at the place of heating. That is, water can boil at the bottom of the cezve, delicate coffee oils will burn, and their taste will be deformed. Remember how a little burnt food at the bottom of a steel pan can spoil the taste of the whole dish.
Copper cezves are an ideal option and a real coffee lover tool. These are time-tested traditions. I emphasize: it is a tool that allows you to control the process of making coffee in order to improve its taste. The high thermal conductivity of copper will evenly heat the water and extract coffee oils without bringing the drink to a boil. The French have a saying: "Boiling kills coffee." Due to the burning of coffee oils, the taste of the drink is deformed and bitterness appears.
The foam cork that forms on the surface of the coffee is extremely important. Fine grinding of coffee and the conical shape of the cezve contribute to the creation of such a cork, and it blocks the evaporation of essential oils. That is why we get a thick drink with a rich taste and amazing aroma.
As for geyser coffee makers, this Italian invention has nothing to do with cezves. In its own way, a convenient and iconic instrument was invented in the 1930s. It works differently - on the principle of evaporation of water and the creation of steam. Steam passes through a layer of coffee and ends up in the top of the coffee machine as a drink.
Cezva should be conical in shape with a wide bottom and narrow throat - two to three times the bottom. A wide bottom provides stability and a large heating surface, and a narrow neck - a cork that practically seals coffee, blocks the access of oxygen and prevents it from boiling quickly, and also prevents the evaporation of essential oils.
One and a half millimeters - the optimal thickness of the walls and bottom. Why am I against a too thick bottom? The copper from which the cezve is made must be solid, that is, from a single sheet. If the lower part is thicker - this is an indicator that the cezve is not made of solid copper sheet, which means that the quality of soldering could be impaired (for example, silver should be used for such purposes in food technology, but few people follow these rules: I came across that solder with suspicious substances). In addition, the soldering place itself is vulnerable. Cezva is regularly exposed to temperature extremes, due to which the place of soldering can become loose and crack. But overall, there is nothing wrong with a thick-bottomed cezve if it is properly made; such cezves, for example, are usually used for cooking in sand.
Also, in the case of a copper cezve, you need to pay attention to whether the inner coating is damaged: copper can react with coffee, so the cezves are coated with food metal. As a rule, stainless steel, but sometimes silver, as in our case; silver is ideal, as it also has antibacterial properties.
I highly recommend being especially careful when buying dishes at flea markets and on the Internet - pay attention to the quality of the inner coating. If there is damage, re-tinning is necessary - applying a layer of food tin.
The handle of the cezve should be long, angled. Her task is to protect her hand from burns. The handle should not heat up, so either wood or metal with low thermal conductivity is suitable. Plastic, in my opinion, falls out of harmony with natural materials and can emit a plastic smell when heated. I am sure this is not the flavor that you expect from your cup of coffee.
Often, cezves are made with a wooden handle: the wood heats up very slowly and is more hardy. But every time you wash the pot with a wooden handle, the connection point loosens.
Preparation of cezve
Cezva is a very versatile tool, you can make coffee in it on anything: on coals, in the sand, in the fireplace, on the fire and so on. It is only important to prepare it correctly.
New cezve should be washed perfectly. First, you need to rinse it with water without detergents, otherwise they will clog in the pores and remain with the cezve forever. After that you can fill the cezve with water, put a lemon and bring to a boil - this way we disinfect it from all kinds of means that could be used in production. In addition, many connoisseurs advise pouring a spoonful of coffee into a cezve and pouring water so that the walls of the vessel are covered with coffee oils.
Chef at the bartender
The best material for the Turks is copper. It is the copper Turk that allows you to preserve the original aroma of Turkish coffee. And the aroma in coffee is the most important thing. Other materials do not allow to achieve such an effect. In addition, copper Turks are a tradition that has been adhered to in Turkey since the Ottoman Empire. We even have copper coffee machines and tea kettles in our restaurant. Like the Turks, they were brought from Istanbul. The shape of the Turks should be classic. This is the case when you do not need to invent anything, since everything has been invented for a long time.
In the classical form of the Turks, the thick does not rise up, but slides along the walls, separating from the foam.